The man who once described a lambic’s flavor profile as “Who pooped in my Fruit Loops?”, the one who wrote a sprawling, controversial profile criticizing the food of New Orleans right after Hurricane Katrina, landing him in a sazerac-to-the-face revenge porn scene on HBO’s Treme, the one who is the star of a chapter in Medium Raw entitled “Alan Richman is a Douchebag,” has just announced that he will start publishing weekly restaurant reviews for GQ, the publication which employs him.
Sure, he’s also won 15 James Beard Awards for journalism, and in his first review (of Franny’s in Brooklyn) he had this charming exchange with the bartender:
Me: I refuse to pay only $12 for this drink. It’s great. I want to pay double, like in Manhattan.
Him: Don’t worry, there’s already plenty of profit built in.
But GQ is a national magazine, and he’s a bit limited in reviewing by being New York-based, no? Does a men’s lifestyle magazine even really need weekly restaurant reviews? We have so many feelings…
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