Though Mission Chinese has been written about ad nauseam by magazines and newspapers and websites, Danny Bowien and his grand experiment in Sichuan cooking received a glowing two-star review from Pete Wells at the New York Times yesterday afternoon:
Mr. Bowien does to Chinese food what Led Zeppelin did to the blues. His cooking both pays respectful homage to its inspiration and takes wild, flagrant liberties with it. He grabs hold of tradition and runs at it with abandon, hitting the accents hard, going heavy on the funk and causing all kinds of delicious havoc.
Congratulations, Mr. Bowien! And hooray for salt cod fried rice.
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