Notoriously soft-spoken Chef Thomas Keller realized what a splash he made after laying an echoing smackdown on the idea of chefs being responsible for sustainability in an New York Times interview alongside Andoni Luis Aduriz. In typically placating fashion, the chef-owner of The French Laundry, Per Se, and Bouchon felt the need to quiet the fight with another article, this time penned himself, expounding on his feelings towards the locavore movement.
First, he’d like to point out that the NYT interview was supposed to be a celebration of Aduritz’s new book. But once the two chefs started running their mouths about how sustainable food practices should be enforced by the government, and not the sole responsibility of chefs, the interview turned another direction entirely.
In a piece written for Finesse Magazine, Thomas clarifies some of the practices of his restaurant group, which, admittedly, places an emphasis on quality over how near by his ingredients are. But, Keller writes:
“My priority has always been to support those that can have a transformative effect on their respective businesses, whether they forage seafood, raise lamb or grow crops. Our commitment to them helps ensure that they sustain their business and our guests get to enjoy the fruits of their labors. They can continue to be sensitive to developing their sustainable practices which leads to sustainable local production, jobs and businesses that continue to invest in this cycle.
So, it doesn’t matter that his bottled water comes all the way from Sweden, because look at all those jobs he’s creating for the Swedes! Read the rest of Keller’s soothing, soothing message here. It’s almost as nice as a warm bath with a glass of Malbec.
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