All the cool kids who went to MAD Symposium got to see Wylie Dufresne, introduced by his old friend David Chang. “I never thought I’d have to introduce Wylie for anything,” he said, recalling how they met in 1999 at his first restaurant, 71 Clinton Fresh Food (where Chang stepped on a crack pipe in front of the entrance). Twelve years later in crack-free Copenhagen, Dufresne spoke on the concept of appetite: what it is, how it applies to both taste and knowledge, and how he uses those concepts to design his cerebral menus.
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