For all of the whizbangery, publicity, and money that comes from high-profile restaurants that use molecular gastronomy, the scientific techniques mean nothing in a professional kitchen without a thorough understanding of fundamental cooking skills — skills that a lot of young chefs lack, to the frustration of older, established chefs. As Mark Vetri put it in an op-ed which eventually went viral, “Trust me when I tell you that [molecular gastronomy master] José Andrés is a master of the basics. You should strive to be one too.”
But if the below tweet from Coi’s Daniel Patterson — which got retweeted over 340 times since he sent it out on Sunday evening — indicates anything, it’s that the grumbling annoyance with underskilled and overambitious young chefs is growing into a roar. With chefs like Tom Colicchio, Harold Dieterle, and Shuna Lyon retweeting it, Patterson’s tapped into a powerful sentiment. No doubt Wolfgang Puck, who complained to us that contestants on this season of Top Chef didn’t know how to cook an omelet, would agree.
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