FOOD FEUD: Canadian Critics Spar Over David Chang’s Place In Toronto

Two critics, both alike in dignity,

In fair Canada, where we lay our scene,

Where David Chang came from New York City,

With porcine blood and ramen bowls — a dream!

From Toronto’s food critic Chris Nuttall-Smith:

“Momofuku gives our city glory!”

Lesley Chesterman of Montreal rebuked:

“That foreigner? Canst thou not write a story?”

And then Steve Dolinsky, a Chicago-based food writer, stepped in and started giving his take on the feud in free verse. Did it really matter, as the two critics argued, whether David Chang’s status as a transplanted American helped — or harmed — the culinary reputation of the city:

I’m not sure it really matters where the chef is from, as long as he/she is turning out consistent, delicious, occasionally  mind-blowing food…I think what Chang is doing in Toronto is superb local cuisine you can’t find elsewhere. He name-checks plenty of Ontario farmers, wines from the nearby Niagara Region and local spirits. He offers a riff on his now-famous pork buns, serving peameal buns as well; they get a three-day brine, then are steamed and rolled in cornmeal, and get topped with Kozlik’s mustard. You can find the same stuff down at the St. Lawrence Market, but here on University Avenue, it’s way better.

Wherefore art thou, David Chang?

[Steve Dolinsky]

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