Who will deliver the United States from its irrational aversion to horse meat? Well, if it’s not going to be Andrew Zimmern, it’s probably going to be Paris. Aren’t they the ones who made haute couture socially acceptable? Don’t fail us now, endlessly cool Parisians.
Jean-Guillaume Dufour, owner of Les Tontons, which serves a horse tartare dish in the 15th arrondissement, has high hopes that enough French chefs are pushing horse meat to trigger a national (continental? worldwide?) gastro-trend.
“Of course, [tartare] is perfectly apt because the original steak tartare was horse. The Mongol tribesmen ate their own horses and tenderised the steak under their saddles,” he told BBC News. Mmm, how Dothrakian.
“My mission is to tell the world that you can sit on your meat and eat it too,” he added. “Yes I know horses are pretty and friendly and so on. But cows would be, too, if we let them.”
M. Wells Dinette in New York tried to put a nice horse tartare on their menu in anticipation of their MoMA PS1 reopening, but quickly scrapped the idea after major backlash. Although, no one seemed to mind that they were serving horse bologna and foie gras grilled cheese in Tony’s Corner (AKA the row of stands curated by Anthony Bourdain) at The Great GoogaMooga last summer. Maybe attendees got early word that The French were doing it?
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