No One Can Afford elBulli-Style Meals Anymore, Says Adria Brother

Times are tough, even for the Adria brothers, Ferran and Albert. JK, they’ve opened a whopping four restaurants in Barcelona and beyond, with two more slated for 2014 openings. But that doesn’t mean that the restauranteurs aren’t aware of people pinching pennies.

In an interview with Financial Review, Albert Adria (the younger brother) talks about opening restaurants during the economic crisis in Spain; he says that opening multiple smaller restaurants in short intervals was easier and more manageable. But the restaurants they’re opening now — small eateries, cocktail bars, tapas bars — aren’t the grand elBulli-style of restaurants anymore. Says Albert, “The high gastronomy formula doesn’t work now.”

Strong words from one-half of the most influential teams high gastronomy movement. Is this the end of big, over-the-top gastronomy, from the mouth of the horse? Will an improving (hopefully) economy change how we eat all over again? Time will tell, it seems — but we’ll still drool over an Adria meal, for sure.

[Financial Review]

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