The New York Times knows what’s up, and it’s raining vegetables on New York City. Now that Amanda Cohen’s Dirt Candy is back up and running, we’re getting all sorts of awesome tidbits from our queen of the lady chefs. And one such gem is the “drunkatarian.”
What is a “drunkatarian,” you ask?
“Sometimes I like to call myself a drunkatarian,” [Cohen] said on a cold February morning, taking a break as her team chopped and puréed its way toward dinner service. “If I’m drunk enough, I’ll try anything.”
We’ve literally never been so happy to stumble upon a new word. We imagine it looks a little something like this.
Still, Cohen schools us all a bit by sharing why she chose to ban tipping at the new restaurant, why she doesn’t want Dirt Candy to be pegged as a vegetarian “lifestyle” restaurant, and why farmer’s markets are the devil.
“Trust me, I think farmers’ markets are terrific,” she said. “But it’s hard to run a restaurant off of them.”
The stuff she serves at Dirt Candy? Most of it comes through the door in a cardboard box.
“I don’t need the world’s best carrots,” she said. “I just need carrots. If I used the world’s best carrots, your dish would be twice as expensive.” She went on: “We really try to stick with food that you can get in the vegetable aisle at the supermarket.”
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Is it organic, though? “Not a lot,” she said. “It’s not my mission. You think I’m overpriced now? Imagine if I were organic!”
Can Cohen be our spirit animal please? Our drunkatarian spirit animal? Perfect.
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